Heating/Cooling System Maintenance

TYPES OF HEATING

Depending on your location in Massachusetts and the construction of your home, you may have one of several different types of climate control systems to keep your interior comfortable year-round. Common heating systems in Massachusetts include forced-hot water boilers, steam boilers, and furnaces, typically fueled by gas or oil. Additionally, modern tankless water heaters, powered by electricity or gas, offer an energy-efficient alternative for heating.

While less common in Massachusetts, I also occasionally come across other heating systems such as radiant floor or ceiling heating, electric baseboards, heat pumps, and wood or pellet-burning stoves. Each system has its advantages depending on your home's needs and energy preferences.

Furnaces, boilers, tankless water heaters, electric baseboards, heat pumps and radiant heating systems can be unique in their operation and maintenance. My examination of your heating and cooling systems is mechanically limited since the units are not completely dismantled to examine the interior components or heat exchangers. All heating and cooling appliances, including electric baseboards and radiant heating systems are tested by operating the thermostat or controls as a user would normally operate them on a daily basis. Gas shutoff valves are absolutely not tested but if I do smell gas odors in your home during the home inspection, I will be pinpointing the exact location of this gas leak with my gas leak detector.

BOILER SYSTEMS (Forced Hot Water)

Boilers operate by heating pressurized water, which is automatically fed into the system. The water is typically heated to temperatures between 170 and 190 degrees Fahrenheit. When the thermostat is adjusted or detects a drop in room temperature, the boiler activates to heat the water within its internal vessel. Once the water reaches the desired temperature, pumps circulate it through the heating pipes of your building. This heated water then warms cast iron radiators or baseboard heaters in each room, which, in turn, radiate heat to warm the surrounding air.

Regular maintenance is essential to ensure the boiler operates efficiently and safely. Due to the risk of scalding or steam burns, any servicing or repairs should always be performed by a licensed plumbing professional.

I recommend having your boiler serviced annually to ensure it operates efficiently. Some older circulating pumps require periodic oiling at the three small ports located on top of the pump. If your boiler has these older pumps, confirm that your plumber is properly oiling these ports. A routine annual inspection and cleaning by a qualified, licensed plumber will help keep your hot-water system running smoothly for many years.

A dirty, inefficient boiler can significantly increase your energy costs, far exceeding the expense of a routine service call. During an annual inspection, a technician can identify and address minor issues before they escalate into costly repairs. Additionally, a neglected system is likely to fail years sooner than one that receives regular maintenance. While annual servicing is essential, it's also wise to periodically check your boiler to ensure it’s operating correctly between inspections.

BOILER SYSTEMS (Steam)

Steam heat is a traditional heating system commonly found in buildings constructed before the 1950s. Like forced hot water systems, it uses a boiler to heat water, but instead of circulating water, the boiler heats the water until it turns into steam. The steam, now in gas form, rises through wider pipes and into cast iron radiators located in each room. As the steam travels through the radiators, they become hot, radiating warmth that heats the surrounding air in your building.

During the cold winter months, most steam boilers require periodic water refilling. Some boilers are equipped with automatic water fill valves that maintain the proper water level without manual intervention. However, if your boiler fails to start when the thermostat calls for heat, it may be due to the low water cut-off valve shutting down the system because of insufficient water.

To check the water level, inspect the glass sight tube on the side of the boiler. The water level should be approximately three-quarters of the way up the tube. If the level is low, carefully add water until it reaches this mark. Be cautious not to add water when the boiler is hot or to overfill the boiler, as excess water can cause it to discharge from air vents and radiators, leading to a messy situation. Once the boiler detects a proper water level, it should resume normal operation.

To prevent sediment buildup that can clog interior components and valves, your steam boiler should be drained regularly. I recommend draining about 2 gallons of water, or until the water runs clear, at least once a month. During colder months when the boiler is in frequent use, performing this task weekly can help maintain optimal performance and extend the system’s lifespan.

TANKLESS WATER HEATERS

Tankless water heaters, also known as demand-type or instantaneous water heaters, operate using electricity, natural gas, or propane. They are significantly more efficient than traditional boilers because they don’t store and maintain a supply of hot water in a tank. Boilers experience standby heat loss as the heated water in the storage tank gradually cools, requiring the system to periodically reheat the water to maintain a set temperature — even when no hot water is being used.

In contrast, tankless water heaters eliminate this energy loss by heating water only when it’s needed. As water flows through the unit, a heat exchanger rapidly brings it to the desired temperature. This on-demand heating process reduces energy consumption and lowers utility costs, making tankless systems a more efficient choice for domestic hot water needs.

Tankless water heaters provide both home heating and hot water for your kitchen and bathrooms. When your thermostat or a faucet calls for heat or hot water, the unit’s high-powered burners ignite, rapidly heating the heat exchanger. As water passes through the exchanger, it is heated to around 140 degrees Fahrenheit before exiting through the hot water outlet pipe. From there, it travels through the heating pipes to warm your rooms or directly to the fixture where hot water is needed.

To maintain the desired temperature, the tankless water heater adjusts the flame output as necessary. Once the demand for heat or hot water is met, the system shuts down. The cold water flow stops, the flame extinguishes, and the unit remains off until it’s needed again, providing energy-efficient, on-demand heating.

FORCED AIR SYSTEMS (Heating and Cooling)

In a forced hot air heating system, the furnace's heat exchanger is warmed by burning fuel beneath it. A blower fan then circulates air from inside the home over the heated exchanger. As the air is warmed, it is distributed throughout the home via registers in the floor, walls, or ceiling, effectively heating each room. This process ensures that warm air flows evenly throughout the home.

In some homes, the same ducts used for a forced hot air heating system are also utilized for central air conditioning, which is an electric-powered split-system. The system consists of two main components: the compressor unit and the evaporator unit. (Note: The outdoor compressor unit typically has a service life of 12 to 15 years with proper maintenance.) The larger, noisier components—the compressor and condenser coil—are installed outdoors, while the evaporator coil is located indoors, usually in the form of an A-frame in the plenum above the forced-air furnace.

In this setup, the furnace’s blower moves warm air from the interior over the evaporator coils, cooling the air before it’s distributed throughout the home. Two refrigerant lines connect the compressor and evaporator. The larger line (vapor line) should always be insulated to maintain temperature and prevent sweating. Additionally, a condensate drain line runs from the indoor evaporator to a drainage point. If the installation elevation requires it, this line may be connected to a condensate pump to move the water to an outside drainage area.

The central air conditioning system shares the same duct distribution system and blower unit filter as the heating furnace, allowing it to deliver cool, conditioned air to the rooms served by the system. One of the most important steps in maintaining your forced air furnace and ensuring it runs smoothly and efficiently is regularly changing the air filter. Ideally, you should replace the filter every three to four months. This will not only extend the life of your furnace but also improve the quality of your indoor air.

When installing a new air filter, make sure the arrows on the filter are pointing in the direction of airflow. Remember, the air flows into the return duct and towards the blower compartment. Disposable filters are generally recommended, but you can also use a washable filter made of steel or soft mesh.

At the start of each heating season, open the blower compartment of your furnace for a visual inspection. Use a screwdriver or putty knife to gently scrape dust and grime off the blower blades. Most modern blower motors are sealed and self-lubricating, but if you have an older system, the motor may have an oil reservoir. If so, be sure to fill it at the beginning of the heating season.

If you have a gas furnace, it's a good idea to schedule a professional tuning and cleaning every two years. Electric furnaces should be inspected by a professional every two years as well, while oil furnaces should have a tune-up at least once a year. If your furnace is older (15 years or more), I strongly recommend asking your HVAC technician to specifically inspect the heat exchanger for any cracks, holes, or leaks. Please note that my furnace inspections are mechanically limited, as examining the heat exchanger requires dismantling certain compartments. An inspection of the heat exchanger is crucial because any deterioration could allow dangerous combustion gases to enter your living space.

HEAT PUMPS

Heat pumps do not generate heat; instead, they transfer heat from one location to another. Essentially, a heat pump operates like an air conditioner in reverse. During the summer, it functions as a typical air conditioner when the outdoor temperature is above 65°F. (Using the A/C mode at colder temperatures can damage the compressor.) In the winter, the heat pump switches to reverse mode, extracting heat from the outside air and transferring it indoors to warm your home.

In reverse mode, a heat pump heats a building by absorbing available heat energy from the outside air. Heat pumps are most efficient at saving energy when operating in heating mode. However, the challenge with air-source heat pumps in cold climates is that as outdoor temperatures drop, your home requires more heat, but the heat pump becomes less efficient. Below a temperature known as the "balance point"—typically between 30 and 45 degrees Fahrenheit—supplementary heat is needed. This triggers expensive electrical-resistance heating, which can significantly increase operating costs.

Heat pump performance can decline significantly without regular maintenance and service. The difference in energy consumption between a well-maintained heat pump and a neglected one can range from 10 to 25 percent. Always ensure that you turn the power on at least 24 hours before using the A/C or heat pump. Additionally, avoid quickly switching between the two operating modes, as this can cause damage to the system.

REGULAR MAINTENANCE

The following routine maintenance tasks can be performed by either the homeowner or a service technician:

-Clean or replace the filters regularly, ideally every 2 to 3 months, depending on usage and the amount of dust in the environment.

-Clean the outdoor condenser coils as needed, whenever dirt buildup is visible on the surface. Additionally, remove any plant life and debris from around the condenser to ensure proper airflow.

-Clean evaporator coil and condensate pan (located above the heat exchanger area) every 2 to 4 years.

-Clean the blower's fan blades (located in the lower plenum).

-Clean every supply and return register and straighten out their fins.

PROFESSIONAL MAINTENANCE

You should have a professional HVAC technician service your heat pump every year. The technician should be:

-Inspecting ducts, filters, blower, and indoor coil for dirt build-up and other obstructions.

-Diagnose and seal any duct leakage.

-Verify adequate airflow by measurement.

-Verify correct refrigerant charge by measurement.

-Check for any refrigerant leaks.

-Inspect electric terminals, and if necessary, clean and tighten connections, and apply a nonconductive coating.

-Lubricate motors, and inspect belts for tightness and wear.

-Verify that the electrical controls are functioning correctly, ensuring that heating is disabled when the thermostat calls for cooling, and vice versa.

-Verify correct thermostat operation.

PERIODIC MAINTENANCE

Motorized equipment, such as your heating system, requires regular adjustments, burner cleaning, parts replacement, repairs, vent inspections, and other routine checks. Licensed professionals are familiar with your equipment and the required codes. Your heating contractor can help ensure that your system operates at peak efficiency, lasts longer, and saves you money year after year. Additionally, having an annual service plan in place guarantees access to a 24-hour on-call technician in case of a heating emergency.

HEARTH APPLIANCES

Some homes have wood-burning stoves, pellet-burning stoves, or fireplaces. While these can provide warmth, they cannot be relied upon for continuous heating. All of these systems require regular replenishment of fuel. While this may be ideal for a quiet getaway in the Massachusetts countryside, it doesn't typically align with modern lifestyles. These should only be used as supplemental sources of heat, not as the primary heating method.

For maximum heat output, reduced creosote buildup, and better efficiency, it's best to burn only seasoned wood. Avoid burning green (unseasoned) wood, as it can contain up to 50% moisture by weight, requiring extra energy to burn off the moisture before any heat can be delivered to your home.

Stovepipes and chimney flues should be inspected by a chimney professional annually before using your stove. The inspection should check for signs of deterioration, such as cracked flue liners, leaks, warping, baffle gaps, broken or missing bricks, heavy creosote buildup, bird nests, and other debris. The flue and stovepipe should be thoroughly cleaned of soot and other residues. Throughout the heating season, inspect the stovepipe and chimney regularly for creosote buildup. If you use an air-tight stove, inspect the stovepipe at least once a month. Your chimney cleaning schedule will depend on how frequently you use your stove and how it is operated.

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